Mount Satima was my introduction to the northern Aberdares. The approach through Rhino Gate takes you from open grassland into dense forest, then out into wide moorland. By Twin Rocks, the landscape has opened up and you begin to see what you’ve come for.

The trail heads through small valleys and jagged rock formations towards the summit, with Dragon’s Teeth stealing much of the attention along the way. I kept finding reasons to stop and look back. Each view seemed to reveal a little more than the last.

Rain followed much of my climb, with pauses just long enough to get my hopes up. The return brought better weather and a chance to enjoy the places I had trudged past the day before.

Getting to Twin Rocks

This hike starts at Twin Rocks, approached on this trip from Nanyuki through Rhino Gate. It’s a modest entrance to a rather extraordinary landscape.

Inside the park, the road winds through forest and onto hillsides covered in low moorland shrubs. The twin rocks appear well before you reach them, piercing the landscape and announcing their presence. There’s little doubt about how the place got its name.

At the trailhead, a large parking area and a sign mark the picnic site and the Ol Donyo Satima trail. The campsite sits at the foot of the rock outcrops, with few facilities. The small toilet structure looked rundown and disused during my visit, so check current arrangements before planning a stay.

A gentle start into the moorland

The trail welcomes you gently. A mostly flat 4×4 track gives you time to settle into the walk before the climb through the moorland grasses begins.

Around where the track ends, the first jagged rocks hint at what lies ahead. It’s worth turning around here: Twin Rocks and the campsite are already taking on a different shape below.

After the initial climb, the route drops into a small valley, crosses a tiny stream and heads up a steeper slope. Nipple Rock stands in the middle ground, with Dragon’s Teeth behind it. There is plenty to hold your attention, even before you reach the main attraction.

Walking through Dragon’s Teeth

Dragon’s Teeth had me pinching myself. Under a grey sky, the jagged outcrops have a sombre presence above the wet grasses. I stopped during a break in the rain, a little cold but very glad to be there.

The trail climbs and then drops through a gap in the rocks, almost like a gate. On the other side, open moorland returns and the path snakes gently through the grasses.

Keep looking back along this stretch. The view seems to zoom out as you walk: first the rocks beside you, then the whole formation, then the surrounding hills. I’m a slow hiker at the best of times; this wasn’t helping.

The climb towards the summit

Beyond Dragon’s Teeth, the route continues across open ground and up the ridges towards Satima. Gentle stretches break up the climbs, but the easy start rather undersells the effort ahead, especially with a heavy backpack.

The ridges leave you exposed to the weather. On my visit, drizzle became repeated downpours, with only short breaks between them. By the summit, my boots were soaked and stopping meant getting cold. Hot tea had rarely been so welcome.

Allow time for the scenery as well as the climb. There are too many good places to pause to treat this as a straight march to the top. An early start gives you room to enjoy them without leaving the final ascent too late.

Returning through the rocks

Coming down the following day was a joy. The weather stayed pleasant, the walking was mostly downhill, and the rain cover could finally stay packed away.

Dragon’s Teeth looked different from the opposite direction. With time to linger, I could properly appreciate the shapes of the rocks and the spaces between them. It felt a little like wandering into another world.

The summit gives this hike a destination, but the changing views between Twin Rocks and Dragon’s Teeth are what have stayed with me. They’re worth taking your time over, whichever way you’re walking.

Field Notes

Planning your hike

• Start early and allow time for the scenery as well as the summit.
• Pack waterproof layers and protect the contents of your bag. The rain on this trip lasted much longer than a passing shower.
• Carry a warm layer for stops. Wet feet and clothing made the summit particularly cold.
• If camping, keep sleeping gear dry and bring enough warm clothing for the night.
• Check current access, guide and camping arrangements with the park before travelling.

My visit included a night near the summit. A planned onward descent via Wandare was abandoned because of the weather, so this account covers the Twin Rocks route only.

Editing reminder: Add a verified route map or GPX embed here. Insert distance, elevation gain and walking time after checking the recorded track.

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Summary Card

Introduction

Gatamaiyu is a relatively challenging walk up and down tea farms with rewarding wide open vistas and the occasional waterfalls and river crossings.

It's great for those seeking a mix of highland scenery, short steep climbs and waterfalls exploration in one compact loop.

Location & Access

The trail starts and ends in Kagwe Town.

Google Maps: Kagwe Town

Access

• Self-drive is common. The roads are accessible all year round.

Entry Requirements

The trails is on publicly accessible land with no entry requirements. This is mostly private land, be mindful of people's property.

Route Description

Gatamaiyu Trail starts and ends in Kagwe Town, tracing a moderate 7.8 km loop through the tea-growing highlands of northern Kiambu.

This is a hiking route shaped by contrast. Open farm tracks and tea plantations give way to steep descents into wooded river valleys, where dense vegetation, wet rock and cool shade create a very different mood from the cultivated slopes above. The trail sits between 2,004 and 2,110 metres and packs 447 metres of climbing into a 2 to 3 hour outing, so the hilly terrain demands steady effort throughout.

Water defines much of the experience. The route is associated with Kagagu Cave and a series of waterfalls, including a cave-side fall reached through muddy, slippery valley terrain. Riverine sections bring ferns, vines and shaded stream corridors, while the climbs back toward the farms and town can feel tougher than the distance suggests. Kagwe Town serves as both trailhead and finish point, making this a convenient town-based walk rather than a full forest-reserve trek.

Gatamaiyu suits hikers looking for a mix of rural highland scenery, short steep climbs and waterfall exploration in one compact loop.

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Highlights

Tea Farms

The trails traverse tea plantations descending and ascending steep slopes..

Waterfalls

There are several waterfalls along the trail.

Caves

There are caves on the trail.

Trail Conditions

This section focuses on how the trail feels and behaves, not just the numbers.

• Terrain: mostly tea farms paths with steep slopes near rivers.
• Gradient: steep tea plantations descending into river valleys.
• Surface: can get muddy and slippery after rain; in dry season it's mostly firm.
• Navigation: straightforward with a guide;
• Phone signal: generally great.
• Facilities: no facilities along the trail.

Gear & Packing List

Essentials

• 1.5 L of water per person
• Snacks or a packed lunch
• Comfortable trail shoes or sturdy trainers
• Hat and sunscreen
• Light, breathable clothing that can dry quickly
• A small daypack
• Rain jacket in case of showers.

Safety & Tips

• Weather: prefer the dry season. Muddy trails make navigating the slopes hard.
• Leave no trace: pack out all rubbish, including food wrappers and bottles.

Best Time to Go

• Season: the drier months (roughly June - October and January - March) offer the easiest walking conditions.
• Time of day: starting mid-morning works well.
• Weekdays vs weekends: both are fine.

Notes

Gatamaiyu suits hikers looking for a mix of rural highland scenery, short steep climbs and waterfall exploration in one compact loop.

Gura River Camp is the kind of campsite that makes sense for a quick weekend out of Nairobi. It sits on the banks of the Gura River in the Aberdare forest, and the main appeal is simple: riverside camping in a quiet, green setting without a long drive or too much logistics.

We spent a weekend here recently. It was an easy sort of trip, we arrived, set up camp, sat by the river and let the day slow down on its own. There are camping spots right by the water, enough tree cover to make the place feel tucked away, and the constant sound of the river running through camp. The atmosphere is simple and low-key rather than polished. We loved it.

Location & Access

Gura River Camp is in the forest reserve along the Gura River, just outside the Aberdares National Park fence. According to the camp, it is about 2 hours 45 minutes from central Nairobi, with tarmac almost all the way and only the last 10 minutes off-road. Four-wheel drive is generally not required unless your vehicle is especially low-clearance or it is the wet season.

The Camp Experience

The first impression here is the river. The camping spots are set right on the bank, and the water is always in view. Once camp is up, there is not much pressure to do anything beyond settling in.

That was really the rhythm of our stay. The first afternoon went into the usual camp rituals: unloading the car, putting up the tent, arranging chairs, and slowly turning a patch of ground into a temporary home. After that, the day opened up into the quieter parts of camping: tea, reading, watching the river, and waiting for evening light.

Sunset was one of the best moments of the trip. The light softened over the tents and the river, and camp took on that familiar end-of-day stillness that only seems to happen outdoors. The next morning had the same calm pace: sunrise over camp, breakfast by the river, and no real urgency beyond enjoying the morning before packing up.

Gura River Camp works best if that is what you want from it. This is not a destination built around a long list of activities. It is better suited to campers who enjoy the slower side of being outdoors.

Facilities

The facilities are simple but well thought through. The camp provides eco toilets, hot showers, a kitchen banda with a sink and work surface, and firewood by arrangement. There is no mains power on site and lighting is limited. The tap water comes from the river and is not filtered, so you should bring drinking water or a filter. Mobile signal is also very limited in camp. These are all worth planning around before coming.

In practice, the camp feels comfortable as long as you arrive prepared. It is not luxurious, but it has what you need for a good self-catered weekend outdoors.

Short Walks & Time by the River

We also did a short walk along the river. It was not a major hike, just a narrow, slightly overgrown path following the water and cutting through the vegetation around camp. It added a bit of movement to the trip without changing the overall mood.

That felt true to the place. Even the more active parts of the weekend still came back to the same thing: being near the river and moving at a slower pace.

Field Notes

Riverside camp • Aberdares • Self-catering • Weekend trip • Forest setting

Conditions

• Riverside campsites in a shaded forest setting
• Calm atmosphere with very limited mobile signal
• Easy access for a short weekend trip from Nairobi

Recommendations

• Bring drinking water or a reliable filter
• Carry lighting and charging solutions
• Download directions before the final approach
• Come for a slow weekend rather than an activity-heavy one

Gotchas

• No mains power
• Limited signal
• River-fed tap water is not filtered
• Facilities are simple, not polished

Final Take

Gura River Camp is an easy place to like. It is close enough to Nairobi for a relaxed weekend, but once you arrive it feels properly removed from the city. The river, the forest, and the simplicity of the setup do most of the work.

For campers who value atmosphere over amenities, it is a strong weekend option.

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Summary Card

Introduction

Ngare Ndare Forest is a chill, scenic day hike offering dense indigenous forest, a suspended canopy walkway, and turquoise pools fed by glacier melt from Mount Kenya.

It’s accessible, beginner-friendly, and perfect if you want a chill outdoor day with the option to swim.

Location & Access

Ngare Ndare Forest sits on the lower slopes of Mount Kenya, between Timau and Lewa Conservancy.

Google Maps: Ngare Ndare Forest Trust

Nearest towns

• Timau (30 mins)
• Nanyuki (60 mins)

Access

• Self-drive is common. High clearance vehicle is ideal.
• You drive to the Ngare Ndare Forest Trust office/forest gate, where you park and handle entry formalities.
• Mobile signal is usually good up to the office and then becomes patchy once you’re inside the forest.

Entry Requirements

Ngare Ndare Forest is managed by the Ngare Ndare Forest Trust. Details can change, but the general pattern is:

• Operating hours: 08:00–17:00
• Entry fees: paid at the forest office ( 2000 for residents plus 1000 for armed guide)
• Booking: required - you need to reserve an armed guide.
• Guides: required.

Kindly double-check current fees and rules with the forest office before you go.

Route Description

From the forest reception, follow the 4x4 track as it heads gently downhill into the forest. The path is wide, easy to follow, and quickly becomes cooler and shadier as you enter thicker indigenous forest with tall red cedars and wild olive.

After roughly 30 minutes, leave the main vehicle track on a short forest detour that drops steeply into the river bed. This leads you to the famous Blue Pools; clear turquoise water fed by Mount Kenya. It’s a natural rest spot and a good place for a snack, photos, and (for the brave) a cold plunge.

From the pools, continue a short distance along the river bed to reach the waterfall. It’s a tall cascade with a deep plunge pool at its base. The final descent is steep and can be slippery, so take care.

Most groups return the same way back to the forest reception. From there, continue to the start of the canopy walkway. The 450 m suspended bridge crosses a tree-filled valley, sways gently, and offers great views over the forest. It’s beginner-friendly and popular with families.

You can find this route visualized inside the Savanna Guides app.

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Highlights

Indigenous Forest & Wildlife

Ngare Ndare is a proper forest rather than a plantation:

• Red cedars, Sycamore figs, wild olive, podocarpus, and other indigenous species
• Plenty of birds; you may also see monkeys
• Larger wildlife such as buffalo or elephants can pass through the area, which is one reason going with a guide is important.

Blue Pools

The Blue Pools are glacier-fed and very cold, even on a hot day.

• Clear turquoise water.
• Deep enough for plunging.
• Great for a short plunge or a quick swim.
• Slippery rocks around the edges.

Canopy Walk

The canopy walkway is one of the reasons Ngare Ndare is so memorable:

• Long, suspended bridge system above the trees
• Gentle sway, but solid underfoot
• Great viewpoints for photos and short videos
• Nice place to look for birds and monkeys

Trail Conditions

This section focuses on how the trail feels and behaves, not just the numbers.

• Terrain: mostly forest tracks and paths, with some rocky or rooty sections near the river
• Gradient: generally gentle with a few short, steeper segments on the river banks.
• Surface: can get muddy and slippery after rain; in dry season it's mostly firm.
• Navigation: straightforward with a guide;
• Phone signal: generally weak or absent inside the forest, better at the office and on some higher ground
• Facilities: basic toilets and a small office area near the gate; no facilities at the pools themselves.

Gear & Packing List

Essentials

• 1.5 L of water per person
• Snacks or a packed lunch
• Comfortable trail shoes or sturdy trainers
• Hat and sunscreen
• Light, breathable clothing that can dry quickly
• A small daypack

Nice to have

• Swimwear and a light towel
• Dry bag or zip-lock for your phone and camera
• Light fleece or windbreaker (especially mornings or cloudy days)
• Simple first aid kit (plasters, painkillers, blister care)

Safety & Tips

• Weather: prefer the dry season.
• Swimming: the water is very cold and pools can be deep. Life jackets are offered free of charge.
• Wildlife: stick with your armed guide.
• Leave no trace: pack out all rubbish, including food wrappers and bottles.

Best Time to Go

• Season: the drier months (roughly June - October and January - March) offer the easiest walking and driving conditions.
• Time of day: starting mid-morning works well.
• Weekdays vs weekends: weekdays are quieter; weekends and holidays can be busy at the pools.

Notes

Ngare Ndare Forest is an excellent hike for people who want something more adventurous than a park walk but less intense than a big mountain. The combination of forest, canopy walkway, and cold blue pools packs a lot of variety into a relatively short day.

It’s beginner-friendly, photogenic, and a great way to introduce friends to hiking without intimidating terrain. The canopy walk alone makes the visit worth it, and the swim at pools is the perfect finisher.

If you’re spending time in Nanyuki or around Mount Kenya, it’s an easy recommendation. Remember to book in advance.

It had been over a year since I last did a long hike in Mount Kenya and on the last days of December, last year, I went back - partly to spend free time and partly to close the year on a high.

The weather wasn't the best, the wet season was nearing its end and the mountain kept cycling between having clear skies, overcast, light showers and ultimately heavy rain. It was, nonetheless a good time on the mountain.

The Route

I had not planned to summit, rather I did a two-day loop on the Sirimon side of Mount Kenya accompanied by a guide: from Old Moses to Shiptons via the usual Mackinders valley and back via the Likii North route. The highest point was the Hausberg Col (4592 M), a short detour from Shiptons camp.

At its best, the route gave us the classic Mackinder’s Valley moments - clear views of the peaks, giant lobelias fields and the calming streams flowing down the mountain. At its worst, ponchos came out to shelter from the rain and the climb up to Likii North humbled us.

A false start

The trip started with a refusal.

I got to the Sirimon Gate towards end of the day, my plan had been to camp and begin my hike the next day. It turned out that I couldn't hike alone and needed a guide.
The park rangers were kind enough to help me - I got a guide coming off the mountain, who was willing to turn around for another trip.

I camped at the Judmeier campsite (KWS campsite) near Old Moses camp, where I met a group of porters and mountain crew who welcomed me to their tent for tea and turned what would have been a dull night into a loud and warm encounter.

Gentle climbs, gentle showers

The first day started out with clear skies and a warm morning sun.

We set out from Old Moses, traversing tussock fields, crossing two river valleys (Nyariginu and Likii) and reaching the viewpoint rest point. By now the weather had slowly turned to being cloudy and overcast.

We had our lunch at the viewpoint, talked with fellow hikers and then started our gradual ascent towards Shiptons camp in the Mackinders valley. It rained quite a bit on the way but cleared up on the last couple of kilometers.

We camped at the KWS Campsite, wonderfully situated next to small winding stream, and enjoyed the amphitheater views of the mountain peaks.

A high point with no views

The next morning, we started the climb toward Hausberg Col—the route’s high point at 4592 m.

It was a steep, slow climb to the top of the col, with the air thinning as we went up and the lobelia fields giving way to bare rocks and loose soil.

At the top of the col, there is supposed to be a great view of the Hausberg tarns on the other side of the mountain. Unfortunately the foggy weather that morning had closed off the view. We however had great views of the Shiptons camp below us.

After our small detour to the Hausberg Col, we descended to Shiptons camp, picked our bags and headed back on the Mackinders valley, this time, aimed for Likii North campsite.

The hike to Likii North was uneventful except to the notable climb out of the Mackinders valley to the Likii North valley, on which the campsite is situated.

The weather remained overcast while we were on the Mackinders valley, became light showers as we hiked up out of the valley and proper rain as we descended to the Likii North campsite for our lunch.

After a brief half-hour lunch stop we proceeded towards Old Moses, crossing boggy sections and jumping over small gaps in the trail that had been eroded by the rains. The rainy weather made this section dull but my guide mentioned that there are excellent views of the peak in clear weather.

We arrived back at Old Moses around 4:30 in the afternoon, the weather had cleared again and I was dry except for my soaked trail runners. This was the end of my two days hiking trip.

FIELD NOTES

34 km • +1650m/-1630m • 4592m high point • Loop • Wet season

🗺️ Conditions

• Weather: rapid changes; assume rain even in clear mornings 🌧️
• Terrain: Mackinder’s gradual, Likii North boggy in wet conditions
• Altitude: noticeable above 4000m; steady pacing pays off

🥾 Recommendations

• Hausberg Col: worth the climb even without views
• Footwear: waterproof boots + gaiters for wet season
• Pacing: boring = safe at altitude, especially on wet rock

⚠️ Risks / Gotchas

• Likii North: bog, washouts, and slick footing after rain
• Weather shifts: rain typically after midday
• Guide requirement: no solo hiking; arrange before or at Sirimon Gate

🧰 Checklist

• Waterproof boots / gaiters
• Poncho or rain shell
• Dry bag / pack liner
• Trekking poles
• Thermal layer for Shiptons night
• 2L water + electrolytes

Parks Fees for Locals

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